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Astilbe
• Plants are most striking when used around
water gardens, along walkways, garden paths and borders, in containers
or mass plantings.
• Grow in light or partially shaded area
with ample moisture in the soil.
• Plume-like stalks range from 6 inches
to 2 feet.
• They come in a wide range of colors such
as white, pink, red, rose, and lavender.
• Bloom from early June to late August.
• Incorporate ample amounts of peat moss,
peat humus, or compost when planting.
• Also mulching after planting helps keep
the weeds down and retains moisture in the soil, especially during mid-summer
or drought periods.
• Astilbes make excellent cut flowers if
harvested when the flower plume is half open.
• Combine Astilbes with other shade-tolerant
plants such as hosta, ferns, and anemones.
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Blooms
of Bressingham Perennials
Great Britain’s Blooms of Bressingham are
coming to North America. A new company has been established to introduce
them to gardeners on this side of the ocean.
Blooms of Bressingham are perennials known
throughout the world from books written and illustrated by Alan and Adrian
Bloom, two of Britain’s most prominent horticulturists and nurserymen.
The Blooms are recognized as leaders in the development and release of
new distinctive plants. The expansive selection of perennials that Blooms
of Bressingham offers has been developed over nearly 70 years and is surpassed
by none.
Since the twenties, the Bloom’s, most notably
Alan Bloom, patriarch of the family, have patented hundreds of new varieties
of perennials and subsequently produced them at their nursery. This pioneering
work has brought the nursery international acclaim and numerous awards.
Alan and his son, Adrian, are the only father and son team to ever hold
the Royal Horticulture Society Victoria Medal of Honor simultaneously.
This accolade honors them for years of extraordinary horticultural accomplishment.
It is the highest horticultural honor the English bestow.
The Blooms of Bressingham name has long
been associated with the finest in perennials. Trax Farms has been selected
as one of the exclusive dealers for new perennials created at the internationally
known Blooms of Bressingham nursery in England. Trax Farms is looking
forward to making the Blooms of Bressingham brand a leader throughout
the Pittsburgh area. Bloom’s chairman, Adrian Bloom, announced the names
of the exclusive dealers, called Key Stockists.
Annually, Blooms of Bressingham will release
new patented varieties which will be available only through Key Stockists’
nurseries. This program has been designed as a response to the extraordinary
growth of the home gardening trend and especially, the enormous popularity
of perennials - plants that return annually to the garden. Gardeners -
novice or master - love perennials!
Plants Available Through Blooms of Bressingham:
Bergenia ‘Bressingham Ruby’
Campanula persicifolia ‘Chettle Charn’
Geranium oxonianum ‘Bressingham’s Delight’
Helenium ‘Coppelia’
Kniphofia ‘Bressingham Comet’
Achillea ‘Anthea’
Artemisia lactiflora ‘Guizhou’
Astilbe arendsii ‘Bressingham Beauty’
Crocosmia ‘Bressingham Beacon’
Fragaria ‘Pink Panda’
Gaillardia ‘Mandarin’
Geranium ‘Ann Folkard’
Geranium Cinereum ‘Ballerina’
Geranium cinereum ‘Laurence Flatman’
Heuchera ‘Bressingham Bronze’
Kniphofia ‘Shining Sceptre’
Lavandula ‘Blue Cushion’
Persicaria amplex. var. pendula ‘Taurus’
Polemonium caeruleum ‘Brise d’Anjou’
Rudbeckia ‘Viette’s Little Suzy’
Heuchera ‘Charles Bloom’
Heuchera ‘Green Ivory’
Heucherella alba ‘Brigdet Bloom’
Leucanthemum superbum ‘Snowcap’
Leucanthemum sup. ‘Summer Snowball’
Penstemon ‘Sour Grapes’
Penstemon affinis ‘Dimity’
Phlox paniculata ‘Eva Cullum’
Phlox paniculata ‘Franz Schubert’
Salvia sylverstris ‘Indigo’
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Butterfly
& Hummingbird Garden
Butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted
by bright colors in their search for nectar. To start your garden it should
be located in a sunny area. Place a birdbath, shallow dish or pond in
your garden for the hummingbirds & butterflies to get a drink. Also
putting flat stones around the garden will provide a warm resting place
for them. Now you are ready to plant perennials. You can create a beautiful
butterfly & hummingbird garden with all of the beautiful perennials
listed below.
Butterflies
Asclepias
Lavender
Asters
Lythrem
Buddliea
Monarda
Coreopsis
Phlox
Delphinium
Rudbeckia
Dianthus
Sedum
Echinacea
Solidage
Heuchera
Verbena
Gaura
Veronica
Hummingbirds
Aquilegia
Lobelia
Campsis
Lupinus
Delphinium
Monarda
Dianthus
Nepeta
Daylilies
Penstemon
Heuchera
Phlox
Iris
Salvia
Linium
Scabiosa
Liatris
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Cottage
Garden
The expression “Cottage Gardening” represents
to many a jubilant continuous array of flowering plants. In the early
years, cottage gardens were made up of primary plants that were used for
food, medicine and fragrance. With time, the cottager began to grow more
colorful less useful plants. The plants used by the cottager had to be
self-sufficient for they had little time to spend on flowers. Their time
was devoted to the fields and edible plants. Thus, old fashioned cottage
garden favorites are strong plants, able to survive with minimal care.
Below are perennials often used in cottage gardens and their uses.
Cottager’s Perennials Favorites
Name Use
Aconitum napellus........ rheumatism, heart
sedative
Achillea......................... healed
carpenter wounds
Alcea rosea.................. TB treatment
Alchemilla mollis
Aquilegia
Armeria maritima.......... edgeknot
Artemsia....................... potpourri,
deter moth
Asclepsias
Aster novae-angliae..... tonic
Aubrieta
Campanula................... ease sore
throat
Cerastium tomentosum
Chrysanthemum
Coreopsis verticillata
Dianthus....................... flavor
wine, clove scent
Dicentra spectabilis
Delphinium................... strengthen
eyes
Filipendula
Galium odoratum.......... cool houses,
sweetens water
Geranium..................... used as wound
herb
Helleborus.................... mental disease
Lavandula..................... dried flowers
between linen & pillow
Limonium latifolium
Lythrum........................ keep flies
away
Monarda....................... Tea, perfumes,
potpourris
Oenothera
Paeonia........................ charm against
evil
Papaver
Polygonatum................ heal bruises,
perfume
Primula
Salvia........................... digestion,
hair tonic
Saponaria..................... disinfect,
soap
Saxifraga
Scabiosa...................... used in
funerals
Sedum
Stachys........................ blood purifier
Trollius
Viola............................. sweeten
food, soak feet in
Tradescantia................. cure bite
of spiders
Cottager’s Shrub Favorites
Buddleia (Butterfly Bush)
Clematis
Hydrangea
Roses
Syringa (Lilac)
Wisteria
* Shrubs were used to decorate walls and
hedge rows
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Cut
Flowers
Perennials for Cut Flowers
Wouldn’t it be nice to gather a fresh bouquet
of flowers from your own garden? You can cut virtually any flower for
a bouquet, but not all flowers will have a long ‘vase life’. We have selected
a list of perennials here at Trax Farms that we recommend you use to start
a cut flower garden of your own. Remember to place your garden in a sunny
location with good soil and a regular water supply.
Achillea
(Yarrow)
Alchemilla (Lady’s Mantle)
Alcea (Hollyhocks)
Anthemis (Golden Marguerite)
Aquilegia (Columbine)
Asclepias (Butterflyweed)
Asters (Aster)
Astilbe (Astilbe)
Baptisia (False Indigo)
Campandula (Bellflower)
Chrysanthemum (Daisies)
Centaurea (Bachelor Button)
Coreopsis (Tickseed)
Delphinium (Larkspur)
Dianthus (Pinks)
Dicentra (Bleeding Heart)
Echinops (Globe Thistle)
Echinacea (Coneflower)
Eupatorium (Joe-Pye Weed)
Gaura (White Gaura)
Gallardia (Blanket Flower)
Gypsophlia (Baby’s Breath)
Heuchera (Coralbells)
Hosta ( Plantainlilies)
Iris (Japanese or Tall Breaded)
Liatris (Gay-Feather)
Lilium (Lilies)
Lupinus (Lupines)
Lythrum (Purple Loosestrife)
Monarda (Beebalm)
Paeonia (Peony)
Papaver (Poppy)
Penstemon (Beardtongue)
Phlox (Garden Phlox)
Platycodon (Balloon Flower)
Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan)
Scabiosa (Pincushion Flower)
Stokesia
(Stokes Aster)
Statice (German Statice)
Veronica (Speedwell)
Drying Cut Flowers
Preserving flowers is easy and fun. Whether
you’re cutting flowers from your garden or saving a special bouquet or
corsage, there is a method to dry and preserve for many years to come.
The term “drying” refers to removing moisture
from flower petals and leaves by pressing them, hanging them in bunches,
placing in containers with desiccant, and microwaving. The method you
choose depends on what flowers you are drying and how quickly you want
it done.
Hanging flowers in bunches is an old, easy
method of preserving. Flower stems (remove all foliage from the stems)
are simply tied together with yarn or string and the bunched flowers are
hung upside-down by their stems in a light, airy room. The bunches must
not be hung in direct sunlight as this would cause the flowers to fade.
The best flowers for this method of drying are called “everlastings”.
They have that name because their flowers normally feel dry and papery.
It takes anywhere from a week to a month to dry flower bunches, depending
on the type of flower.
Placing them in containers with desiccants
also can dry flowers. Desiccant are substances that absorb moisture, such
as silica gel, yellow cornmeal, and borax. Many people use silica gel
to dry flowers because it is lightweight and does not harm delicate petals.
Flower shape and color are also well maintained. To begin drying, fill
containers one-third full with silica gel. Flowers are then placed up
in the silica, with the exception of flat-petaled flowers like daisies,
which are, dried face down. Flowers are gently pressed into the silica
making sure that all parts of the flower come in contact with it. More
silica is added until the entire flower is covered. Place a tight fitting
cover on the container and check every few days. It may take three days
for the thinned-petaled flowers to dry, while thicker flowers may take
a week. Silica gel is blue when it is first used. It turns to pink as
it absorbs moisture. When the silica is totally pink, it must be dried
out in a 250-degree oven. This drying procedure will restore the blue
color and allows silica gel to be used over and over.
Flowers may also be dried in a microwave.
In this case, flowers are placed in an uncovered container with silica
gel and placed in the microwave. Drying times may vary anywhere from 2-6
minutes depending on the number and type of flowers being dried.
The type of microwave determines the power
you use. As a rule of thumb, if using a microwave with many settings,
first try a setting midway between the first and last. If there is a defrost
setting, that can be used. It is best to experiment with just a few test
flowers until the correct drying time is found for your particular microwave.
Perennial Flowers for Drying
Botanical Name - Common Name
Achillea millefolium - Yarrow
Aconitum spp. - Monkshood
Anemone spp. - Windflower
Aster spp. - Aster
Astilbespp. - False Spirea
Campanula spp. - Bellflower
Dianthus spp. - Pinks
Digitalis spp. - Foxglove
Gypsophila paniculata - Baby’s Breath
Iris germanica - German Bearded Iris
Lavendula spp. - Lavender
Peonia - Garden Peony
Rosa spp. - Rose
Veronica spicata - Speedwell
Annual Flowers for Drying
Botanical Name - Common Name
Ageratum mexicanum ‘Cut Wonder’ - Floss
Flower
Ammobium alatum - Winged Everlasting
Calendula officinalis - Candula
Celosia spicata ‘Flamingo Feather’ - Cockscomb
Cosmos bipannatus - Cosmos
Dahlia pinnata - Dahlia
Dianthus chinensis - Pinks
Gerbera jamesoni - Gerbera Daisy
Gomphrena globosa - Globe Amaranth
Helichrysum bracteatum - Strawflower
Limonium sinuatum - Statice
Tagetes spp. - Marigold
Tropaeolum nanum - Nastrurtium
Viola spp. - Pansy
Zinnia spp. - Zinnia
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Daisies
Daisies are wonderful garden plants – easy
to grow, prolific bloomers, and good cut flowers, too. They are happy,
cheerful looking flowers with a central disc or eye (the word “daisy”
comes from Old English for day’s eye) surrounded by a row (or several
rows) of petals. Many kinds and colors of flowers have this general form
and if you are sometimes confused – well, who wouldn’t be? Daisies are
members of the huge composite family with over 20,000 species.
Sunflowers are a typical example with a
big central disc made up of hundreds of little petal-less disc flowers
(each of which makes a seed loved by birds) surrounded by a row of ray
flowers with big yellow petals. Marigolds, Zinnias, Calendulas, and Cosmos
are other popular annuals with daisy-like flowers – although the hybrid
forms may have so many petals that they hide the center.
The flower we typically think of as the
daisy – with a yellow center and white petals – is the common Oxeye Daisy,
native to Europe and Asia but now so commonly naturalized as a weed in
North America we think of it as one of our own wildflowers. The Oxeye
Daisy has been hybridized into the garden variety Shasta Daisy, a sturdy
and prolific perennial at home in every garden. There are also florists
varieties of Chrysanthemums that have been bred to look like Oxeye Daisies.
Asters are another large group of wildflowers
that have been domesticated into marvelous garden plants. Each plant produces
hundreds of flowers, in shades of blue, lavender, pink, red or white,
depending on the variety. Because this mass of bloom peaks in the fall,
asters are often called Michaelmas Daisies.
Erigerons began as the wildflowers our
forebearers knew as Daisy Fleabane, an herb with tiny white blooms that
supposedly repelled fleas. Today, Erigerons are outstanding garden performers
in pink, lavender, or white. (It takes a taxonomist to tell you the difference
between an Aster and an Erigeron, but generally Erigerons have narrower
petals. The foliage is different, too.)
It may surprise you that Dahlias are in
the Daisy family, but this miniature “Top Mix” variety is similar to the
wild Dahlia in flower form. The huge dinnerplate varieties with a mass
of hundreds of petals have been hybridized some distance from their origins.
There are many native species of Gaillardia
which are commonly seen along roadsides in much of North America. This
garden hybrid ‘Goblin’ retains the cheerful sunburst effect of red and
yellow petals.
The cheerful yellow stars of native Coreopsis
often turn roadsides and fields into a solid mass of color. The garden
varieties like the Coreopsis verticilliata “Moonbeam” stay in well-behaved
clumps and bloom all summer.
Rudbeckias, or Black-eyed Susans, once
bloomed with their cousins the Echinaceas, throughout the North America
Prairies. Today, Rudbeckias are popular perennials in gardens all over
the world. The variety ‘Goldsturm’ has been chosen as the Perennial of
the Year for 1999.
Nature has made the composite family more
complicated with some blooms that are all disc flowers and no petals.
The “flowers” are tufts of fluffy stamens from the disc flowers. Liatris,
Ageratum, and Goldenrod are actually in the same composite family as daisies.
Well, petals or not, butterflies love all
members of this family (except the very double hybrids). It’s a wonderful
sight to see a butterfly land on the “platform” of the daisy and carefully
probe each tiny flower, sipping nectar, enjoying the good life, and pollinating
the flowers so they will set seed. The next wonderful sight is a little
bird, like a goldfinch, hanging upside down on the brown seed head picking
out the nutritious seeds. Everyone enjoys daisies!
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Daylilies
How To Plant
Hemerocallis (Daylily)
About Daylilies:
Daylilies are among the most adaptable
of all perennials. They can be grown in sun or bright shade; clay, loam,
or sandy soil. They tolerate wind, heat, cold, and seaside conditions.
They are appropriate for borders, backgrounds, accent plants, mass beds,
hard to mow banks and hillsides - daylilies are right for any garden.
The daylily is a long-lived perennial bringing spectacular color to your
garden, with very little maintenance. An excellent choice!
Soaking (for bare root):
For daylilies which are received in bare
root form, soak them in water for 2-6 hours before planting.
Soil Preparation:
Add organic matter to soil, using compost,
peat moss, humus, ground up or decomposed leaves.
Fertilizer
Newly Planted Clumps – Feed with a well-balanced
liquid plant food.
Semi-Established Clumps (after 1 year)
- Apply 3 ounces of Bulb Food evenly around each clump, twice a year.
Established Clumps – Apply 4 ounces of
Bulb Food evenly around each clump, twice a year.
Planting:
Full sun brings the best blooms. After
the hole is dug, place the daylily roots in the hole, gently fanning them
out. The crown should be placed about 1” below the soil surface. Space
plants 24” apart. Fill in with the amended soil.
Mulch:
After planting, use 2” to 3” of mulch.
We recommend pine bark or any hardwood mulch.
Watering:
Water deeply after planting, and for the
first two weeks. After plants are established, water deeply when needed.
Dividing Daylilies:
Daylilies benefit from being dug up and
divided every few years. The best time to divide and replant daylilies
is spring or fall. When digging the clump out, try not to damage the new
inner leaves growing in the center of each fan. Begin by separating the
clump into two sections; use two spading forks placed back to back in
the center of the root mass to pry the halves apart. Then pull each section
apart or, if necessary, use a sharp knife to cut the clump into smaller
and smaller chunks. The pieces from around the outside of the original
mass are the youngest and generally the best candidates for replanting.
The final divisions should be made up of one to four healthy-looking fans
with strong roots. Larger three- or four-fan divisions will reestablish
quickly in the garden. If you can’t plant immediately, protect the divisions
from drying out.
Re-blooming Daylilies
The group of Daylilies which bloom more
than one time a year are called Re-Bloomers. Some plants re-bloom at various
temperatures, and the southern gardens have more re-bloom than northern
gardens.
Requirements to Get Re-Bloom:
• Plants must be grown in full sun or a
slight bit of shade.
• Plants must have correct soil, moisture,
and good drainage. If the soil is dry, a thorough soaking using a sprinkler
or drip hose and soaking the soil to a depth of 12” is recommended every
7-10 days during the dry season.
• Correct feeding procedures are a must:
1. Established clumps should have the first
feeding when the scapes begin to come out of the foliage.
2. If you feed too early, you may encourage
too much growth and get damage due to a late spring frost or freeze. Correctly
timed feedings will help produce more scapes and extend the first blooming
period. After the first feeding, water very thoroughly to activate the
fertilizer. Take into account exposure to sun and wind, and the type of
soil, when deciding when and how much to water.
3. The second feeding should be applied
as soon as the first bloom period is finished; again, water and fertilizer
it very thoroughly. This feed will trigger any re-bloom capability, provided
you keep the moisture at the correct level.
How
to Grow Hosta
Hostas are the Perfect Shade Perennials
Most require shade, but a few will tolerate
some sun. They are easy to grow and will thrive even among tree roots.
Selecting your Hosta
There are many varieties of Hosta, and
you should consider many factors before choosing your plants.
• Color of foliage and blooms
• Height and width of mature plants
• Bloom height
• Special features such as fragrance
• Percentage of shade needed.
Preparation and Planting
Turn over soil using a spade, shovel, or
rototiller; add humus, compost or Canadian sphagnum peat moss and mix
thoroughly.
Dig the planting hole at least 15 inches
across, or approximately 3 times the width of the container or the clump.
Place the plant in the hole with the top
of the soil or crown at 1-1/2 inches above the soil level. This is done
to allow for addition of 1-1/2 inches of Trax Farms premium all bark mulch.
Feeding and Watering
During the first growing season, feed all
Hostas with a well -balanced liquid plant food. Established plants should
be fed in early April using bulb and perennial food at ¼ pound per clump,
or 1/3 pound for every large clump. Spread evenly at 12 inches from center
of clump.
Established Hostas will require very little
water, except for extremely dry periods when you will need to water every
7 to 10 days to obtain the best foliage and increase in clump size.
Insects and Weeds.
Snails and slugs are often found in Hosta
beds, and eaten foliage or holes in the foliage is a sure sign these insects
exist. These critters are easy to control by using ‘ Ortho Slug-getta’
pellets; apply according to the label.
For weeds, we recommend a preventative
control such as ‘Preen’.
Dividing Clumps and Cutting Back
Established clumps 4 or 5 years old may
be divided by lifting the clump, cutting it into 3 or 4 pieces, and replanting
as described above. Dividing is most successful in the spring when the
crowns are ½ to 1 inch above the soil line, before the weather is too
hot.
In late fall, when heavy frost or freeze
turns the foliage brown, you may cut foliage to 3” above ground level,
or leave the foliage on all winter and remove it in spring, if you prefer.
Companion Plants
Impatiens are the best annual companions
to use as edging plants for Hosta. They are available in many colors and
add quite a complimentary touch.
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Long
Blooming Perennials
Perennials with Long Blooming
Periods
(Six Weeks or More)
Achillea (Yarrow) - Many varieties and colors
are available. Colors range from golden yellow to crimson. Most varieties
of Yarrow bloom June-September. The height ranges from 12 inches to 4
feet. Yarrow flowers are long-lasting cut flowers and can also be dried.
Best varieties for drying is ‘Coronation Gold’. Yarrow requires full sun.
Campanula (Bellflower) - Many varieties
with varying flower shapes and heights. Colors are mostly shades of blue
and white. They prefer full sun to part-shaded. Many of the taller varieties
make good cut flowers.
Chrysanthemum ‘Clara Curtis’ - The flower
is a pink daisy that blooms profusely in May and June, slows down over
the hot summer, and blooms again in the fall. The height ranges from 18-24
inches. This deep pink flower makes an excellent cut flower.
Coreopsis (Tickseed) - There are many varieties
of Coreopsis. Most bloom all summer. Some varieties have fine-textured
foliage which is covered with small yellow flowers. Other varieties have
large leaves with double or single yellow flowers. All varieties make
good cut flowers. The best variety for long bloom is ‘Moombeam’. Needs
full sun.
Dianthus (Pinks) - There are many different
varieties of these low-growing perennials. Most varieties bloom May-June.
The flowers are very fragrant and are a very good cut flower. Height ranges
from 6-18 inches. Colors are mostly different shades of pink. When not
in bloom, the gray-green foliage is an attractive addition to the garden.
Needs full sun.
Dicentra ‘Eximia’ - Dwarf bleeding heart
blooms continuously from June-September. This plant prefers a semi-shaded
location. The fringed pink or white flowers and finely textured foliage
make a nice addition to the garden.
Gaillardia (Blanket Flower) - This is an
excellent plant for dry locations. The red/yellow flowers are very striking
throughout the summer. There are several different varieties. The height
ranges from 6-24 inches. Needs full sun.
Hardy Geranium - Perennial geraniums comes
in shades of pink, blue and white. They are a very long-blooming perennial.
Most varieties bloom all summer. The height ranges from 8-24 inches. They
need full sun to part-shade.
Hemerocallis ‘Stella D’ Oro’ - This is
a dwarf everblooming daylily. The golden yellow flowers are smaller than
a standard daylily, but the impact of the flowers and its ability to rebloom
outweigh this fact. Stella D’ Oro will perform well in sun or semi-shade.
The height is from 18-24 inches.
Lythrum (Loosestrife) - This tall perennial
of 24-48 inches blooms June-September. The spike type flowers come in
varying shades of pink/purple. Lythrum will do well in full sun or semi-shade
and will also de well in moist soil. A good background plant for a perennial
border.
Perovskia (Russian Sage) - This tall perennial
of 36-48 inches blooms July-September. The lavender spikes are on a gray
finely textured plant. The flower can be cut or dried and are very fragrant.
Needs full sun. It has been named ‘Perennial Plant of the Year’ for 1995.
Phlox Paniculata (Garden Phlox) - This
tall perennial, 24-36 inches, blooms during the month of July when it
is difficult to get color in your garden. The large flowers range in color
from soft pink to bright orange. Garden phlox make a good cut flower.
Needs full sun to part-shade.
Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan) - The variety
‘Goldstrum’ is the best performing variety. The compact dark green foliage
makes an excellent background for the golden yellow flowers which bloom
July-August. The height ranges from 24-36 inches. The Black-eyed Susan
is a good cut flower. The brown centers can be dried. Need full sun to
part-shade.
Scabiosa (Pincushion Flower) - There are
two varieties which have very long bloom times, from late April to early
October. ‘Butterfly Blue’ has blue flowers and ‘Pink Mist’ has pink flowers.
Both prefer full sun with well drained soil. Height is 15-18 inches tall.
Great cut flower.
Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ - This fall-blooming
perennial begins to bloom in August and continues through the end of September.
The pink/bronze flower head attracts butterflies. If the plant is left
standing, it will add interest to the winter garden. The height ranges
from 18-24 inches. Needs full sun, tolerates dry soil.
Veronica (Speedwell) - Veronica comes in
many different varieties, mostly in shades of white and blue. The spike
type varieties bloom June-September. The height ranges from 6-30 inches.
Veronica is a good cut flower. The variety ‘Sunny Border Blue’ was the
“1993 perennial plant of the year.” Needs full sun to part-shade.
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Ornamental
Grasses
“THE ULTIMATE FOLIAGE PLANT”
Ornamental grasses can add a new dimension
to your garden design. Many are valued for the year-round interest they
provide. In early spring, Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’ starts to
send up its new shoots and by the summer has established a magnificent
stand of gracefully arching foliage. As summer progresses, reddish-pink
plumes open above the finely textured leaves. By the fall, the foliage
changes to a golden-brown color, which remains attractive throughout the
winter months. Grasses are very gratifying plants to grow, and require
little effort to maintain.
The choice of grasses increases every year,
as many native species become more widely available. No other plant group
offers such diversity of size, shape and color. Some grasses are low-growing
mounds, while others attain heights of 15 feet! The excellent colors of
ornamental grasses range from the deep red leaves of Imperata cylidrica
to the blue-gray tufts of Helictotrichon sempervirens, to the yellow zebra-like
bands of Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’. Grasses form a diverse group
of plants, which grow in virtually any habitat. They are native to wetlands,
prairies and sandy beaches, and adapt to similar conditions in your garden.
The more closely your chosen site resembles the natural habitat, the more
successful your planting will be.
The following recommendations will guide
you with planting and maintenance:
It is important to consider the mature
size of the grass and the final effect desired when deciding how far apart
to space plants.
Plant in odd numbers to create a more natural
effect.
Grasses need to be cut back to 6” before
new growth appears. This can be done in the fall or early spring if grasses
are desired for winter garden interest. The use of mulch is recommended
for winter protection.
Acorus gramineud ‘Variegatus’ – A wetland
perennial with stiff, narrow leaves forming neat, grassy tufts. Flowers
in the summer. Grows 8-18” and spreads 6-8”. Full sun to light shade.
Grows best in wet or waterlogged soil or in shallow ponds. Will adapt
to drier soils but not constantly dry soil.
Arundinaria pygmaea ‘Variegatus’ – A small,
slender-stemmed bamboo with bright green canes. Fuzzy, bright green leaves
are striped with creamy-white stripes. Grows 6-12” and spreads 1-2 ft.
Full sun to partial shade. Average soil. Once established, it is drought
tolerant and will tolerate shade.
Arundo donax – A bold ornamental grass
which creates a dramatic, bamboo-like effect. Beautiful flower heads in
late summer to late autumn and excellent in flower arrangements. Grows
6 to 25 feet in height and spreads 4-8 ft. Full sun. Moist humus-rich
soil.
Calamagrostis acutiflora ‘Stricta’ – A
large ornamental grass that forms tight, vertical clumps. Feathery panicles
of yellow flowers appear in spring and become golden colored in autumn.
Grows 4-6 ft. and spreads 6-12”. Full sun to light shade and moist soil.
Plants tolerate clay soils but not drought. Seed heads remain attractive
throughout the winter months.
Carex morrowii – A clump-forming sedge
with stiff, arching foliage. Grows 8-18”and spreads 1-2 ft. Full sun to
partial shade and moist, fertile, slightly acid soil. Light shade is ideal,
but adapts to sunny situations as long as soil is kept constantly moist.
Nice ground cover or container plant.
Cortaderia selloana ‘Pumila’ – A dwarf
cultivar of pampas grass. Very floriferous. Creamy ivory flower plumes
and attractive, gray-green foliage. Grows 0-5 ft. Full sun. Not reliably
hardy, but worth growing as an annual flowering grass.
Cyperus papyrus – Grass-like perennial
of the sedge family. Triangular stems are topped with whorls of leafy
bracts that surround clusters of light brown flowers. Lush accent plant
for moist and aquatic gardens. Also a good container plant. Grows 1-4
ft. Full sun to partial shade. Grows in constantly moist soil or submerged
in water. Not winter hardy, must be over wintered indoors.
Deschampsia caespitosa – One of the few
ornamental grasses which grows in full sun or full shade. Tufts of fine
green foliage topped with airy panicles. Grows 1-4 ft. Partial shade is
ideal. Moist, well-drained soil is essential for good growth.
Equisetum hyemale – Interesting ground
cover and filler for moist sites. Hollow, jointed stems. Grows 1-4 ft.
and spreads vigorously by rhizome. Best in full sun to partial shade.
Wet, humus, soil; will grow well in water up to 6” deep.
Erianthus revennae – A reed-like grass
with large white plumes. A hardy substitute for pampas grass. Ideal screen,
especially at the water’s edge. Flowers in late summer to early autumn.
Flowers and foliage are nice in cut flower arrangements. Grows 10-12 ft.
Full sun. Moist, well-drained fertile soil.
Festuca ovina glauca – A low growing tufted
grass with silvery-blue leaves. Short panicles of flowers bloom above
the foliage clump. An attractive edging plant. Flowers in spring to early
summer. Grows 4-18”. Full sun to partial shade. Moist, well-drained soil
but will tolerate some drought.
Hakonechloa macra – A fantastic shade loving
ornamental grass. Clumps of bright green to golden yellow leaves turn
reddish pink in the fall. Grows 6-18”. Partial to full shade. Moist, well-drained,
humus-rich soil. Avoid planting in clay or dry soil.
Helictotrichon sempervirens – Bright blue,
stiff and erect leaves from hemispherical clumps. Attractive flowers in
late spring to mid summer. Nice in cut flower arrangements. Grows 1-2
ft. Full sun. Well-drained, fertile soil. Avoid clay and waterlogged soils.
Imperata cylindrica – A slow-growing grass
with brilliant, blood red foliage. Grows 12-15”. Full sun to light shade.
Moist, well-drained soil.
Liriope muscari – A grass-like member of
the lily family. Mound of dark, blue-green foliage forms neat clumps.
Highly valued ground cover and edger. Spikes of dense, hyacinth-like flowers
rise above tufts in the summer, followed by pea-sized blue fruits. Grows
8-18”. Full sun to light shade. Evenly moist, well-drained soil.
Miscanthus sinensis – A large group of
grasses offering spectacular variations in color, texture, and form. All
are excellent for screening, massing, or hedging. Grows 0-15 ft. Full
sun to a very light shade. Fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Tolerant
of wind and salt spray.
Ophiopogon ‘Ebony Knight’ – A grass-like
member of the lily family. A sprawling, mounded form. Almost black leaves
have a dramatic effect. Grows 8-10” and spreads 6-12”. Full sun to partial
shade. Moist, well-drained soil.
Panicum virgatum – A versatile bunch-forming
grass, native to the prairie. Narrow, upright clumps of foliage turn orange-gold
in autumn. Flowers last into winter; cut for fresh arrangements. Grows
4-10 ft. Full sun. Very tolerant of wind and salt spray.
Pennisetum aloperuriodes – An attractive
group of grasses with green or black mounding foliage and showy flower
plumes in mid-summer to early autumn. Excellent specimen plant or for
edging and massing. Makes a nice container
plant. Grows 1-4 ft. Full sun to very light shade.
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Perennial
Garden Calendar
January: Sharpen and oil your garden tools.
Walk through your perennial gardens to check for any plants that have
been heaved up by the frost. Start collecting seed catalogs.
February: Continue to watch your perennials.
Read to enhance your gardening knowledge. Our Garden Center has a large
supply of gardening books year round. The information in this catalog
can also help you select ‘new’ plants for your garden.
March: Weather permitting, now is the time
to begin your garden chores. If your soil has been prepared with adequate
amounts of humus, it will warm sooner and dry readily. Remember that more
harm than good results form working soggy soil. Working soggy soil is
not beneficial to you, the soil, or your plants. It clods up and is hard
to work the rest of the year.
April: Spring is here!!! Work away mulches
covering your perennials. Watch for sprouting peonies, tulips and other
emerging perennials. Divide and transplant perennials that are overcrowded.
Attend our Country Spring Festival – 3 days of lectures, display gardens
and fun. Our perennials will be displayed around April 15, which is a
good time to start planting, if the weather cooperates. Nursery stock
arrives, usually in the first 2 weeks, depending on the weather.
May: If you have spring flowering bulbs
in your garden, remember to remove spent blooms and allow foliage to yellow
before cutting back. Fertilize your perennial gardens. Mulch your garden
to cut down on the weeds. Time to start planting summer bulbs and annuals.
We have one of the largest displays of annual plants.
June: Mulch for weed control. Keep an eye
out for disease and pest problems. Now is a good time to divide your daffodils
and tulips. Pinch back your annuals for bushier plants. We still have
a good supply of perennials with new shipments arriving.
July: Water your gardens if there is no
soaking rainfall. Fertilize perennial gardens again. Remove spent flowers
from plants. Pinch back fall blooming chrysanthemums for bushier plants.
August: The hot days of August are heavenly
for insect pests. Watch for mildew. Try to increase air circulation around
your plants. Cut flowers for drying. Consider changes for your garden
for the fall. Many ornamental grasses and perennials prefer fall planting.
September: Plant ornamental grasses, mums,
and pansies for additional fall color in your garden.
October: Plant spring flowering bulbs.
We have a large selection in our Garden Center. Bulbs require well-drained
soil. Adding bulb booster as you plant bulbs will encourage them to set
roots. Clear fallen leaves from perennial beds and lawns.
November: Garden clean-up time. Cut back
most perennials. Allow some perennials, such as ornamental grasses and
sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ to stand for winter garden interest. Pull out any dead
plants. Prepare soil for early planting next spring. Put away tools.
December: Plant Paper White Narcissus early
for the holidays. Come in and browse through our Garden Center for gardening
books and Christmas gifts. Cozy up with a good gardening book and design
some new ideas for your gardens for the following year.
Perennials
for Tough Places
For Damp Places:
Astilbe is one of the most satisfactory
plants for soggy ground. The foliage is fernlike and handsome from spring
to fall, and the blooming season is long and colorful. No pest (including
slugs) seems to like Astilbes. Astibles bloom beautifully in the shade.
If given too much sun their flowers will fade. Most Astilbe flowers last
about four weeks, and you can select early, mid and late season varieties
for blooms all summer.
To grow: Work plenty of compost or other
rich organic matter into the soil and set out plants 12” apart. Water
frequently and mulch with at least 6” of good quality mulch. Fertilize
lightly. Remove stalks after flowering or leave range form 12” to 48’,
with 24’ being the most common size.
Other moisture lovers: Monarda (beebalm),
Daylilies, Aruncus (goatsbeard), Helenium (sneezeweed), Hostas, and Irises.
For Dry & Shady Places:
Aquilegia, or columbine, often survives
many years in neglected old gardens, self-sowing and forming clumps. Most
columbines are drought tolerant, will bloom in shade and don’t require
anything special in the way of good soil. Given a little extra help, some
water in a long dry spell, an annual top dressing with compost in the
spring, they’ll respond with lots of flowers over a long period from late
spring to midsummer. If they do get some sun for part of the day, they’ll
bloom gorgeously. But they’ll flower well even in the shade on the north
side of a building.
To grow: Add low-fertility organic matter
like peat moss or leaf mold to the soil and plant 6” to 30” apart depending
on variety. Water frequently until the young plants are well established.
Mulch and fertilize lightly. Cut back after tops turn brown in fall and
divide early spring if necessary.
What to chose from: White, yellow, blue,
rose, red, violet, and bicolor are many of the colors they come in. The
heights range from 6” to 36”.
More shade-lovers: Monarda (beebalm), Ferns,
Convallaria (Lily-of-the-Valley), Aconitum (Monkshood).
For Hot & Dry Places:
Achillea, commonly called yarrow, grows
so easily it has naturalized in many parts of the country. Yarrow not
only survives drought, neglect, the coldest winters (to –50 degrees) and
the hottest summers, it blooms for a long period. In better conditions,
with rich soil and plenty of moisture, it may take over and crowd out
other plants, so don’t pamper it too much. ( A hot, dry spot that is usually
sunny is best, but yarrow will do well in partial shade also.) The only
thing yarrow won’t tolerate is poor drainage.
To grow: Set out plants, 6”-12” apart.
Water frequently until the young plants are 6” tall. Their roots will
then be deep enough to resist drought. Mulch and fertilize lightly. Cut
back after flowering and divide in early spring if necessary.
What to choose from: The flower head colors
are like the rainbow with white, yellow, gold, pink, rose, and shades
of reds. Heights range from 9” to 60”.
More heat-lovers: Gallardia (Blankletflower),
Asclepsis (Butterfly weed), Chrysanthemum (Feverfew), Artemsia (Wormwoods).
Plants
that Attract Birds
Annuals
Instead of deadheading the spent flowers,
let them go to seed for the birds. You can also cut off the seedheads
as they develop and save them to put out in the winter instead of letting
them drop and be eaten all summer.
Amaranth Calendula Cosmos
Marigold Sunflower Alyssum
Snapdragon Zinnia Nasturtium
Perennials
Most ornamental grasses
Monarda Rudbeckia Digitalis
Echinacea Joe Pye weed Liatris Columbine
Heuchera Kniphofia Lobelia
Lychnis Phlox Salvia
Daylilies Dianthus Lupines
Nepeta
Vines
Honeysuckle Trumpet Vine Ampelopsis
Bittersweet Boston Ivy Grape Vine
Big-leaf Wintercreeper
Trees
Maples Crabapple Mulberry
Tulip Tree Hawthorne Oaks
Hornbeam Pine Hackberry
Cherry Serviceberry Dogwood
Sassafras Russian Olive Spruce
Hemlock
Shrubs
Clethra Mahonia Roses
Weigela Buddleia Currant
Photinia Rose of Sharon Abelia
Lindera Sumac Caryopteris
Flowering Quince
Planting
a Pocket Garden
Plus side to pocket gardening
The color of the plants can provide a contrast
or can complement the color of brick, stone, or wood.
Plants are attractive softeners against
brick, stone, or wood.
Plants lend a different texture to contrast
with the solid look of brick, stone, or wood.
Planting in mini spots is ideal for gardeners
with limited space.
Pocket planting can improve the appearance
of your property. A brick walkway prone to winter heaving, or a forlorn,
stone wall enclosure can be enhanced with filler of flowery plants and
greenery.
Horizontal planting for fragrance and foot
traffic
Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) – releases
apple scents when walked upon; lacy foliage and daisy-like flowers from
low growing, spreading mats. Plant between path or walk crevices.
Corsican Mint (Mentha requienii) – has
a strong peppermint fragrance and is a mat forming, creeping perennial
suitable for planting between walkway crevices in partial shade.
Thyme (T. caespititius) – is highly aromatic
and ideal for walking upon its one-inch mat with lilac-pink flowers.
Thyme (T. x citriodorus) – fills the air
with a lemon scent when its gold and variegated leaves are crushed underfoot.
Sun flowers for vertical gardens (bank,
wall, or slope)
Aubrieta x Cultorum ‘Joy’ – is ideally
named for spreading its vigorous, mat-forming, soft green leaves and short-stemmed
double mauve flowers. Suited for well-drained, sunny banks.
Rock Cress (Arabis x Aremdsii ‘Rosabella’)
– a robust, compact perennial, is good for spilling its rosy clusters
down a dry bank or wall; pretty for crevice plantings, too.
Saponaria Ocymoids – referred to as Tumbling
Ted or Rock Soapwort, it is true to its name and rapidly spreads a mat
of pink flower clusters 3” high.
Shade seekers for vertical gardens
Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla mollis) – does
best in partial shade, but can tolerate sun as well. It reaches to 2’
and bears chartreuse flowers.
Phlox (P. ‘Chatahoochee’) - bears slender
or tubular shaped flowers of lavender-blue with a maroon eye; 6” phlox
likes well-drained and partial shaded area.
Saxifraga (S. granulata) - is an alpine
plant known as Fair Maids of France. White saucer shaped flowers reach
10” in light shade.
Horizontal planting out of Harms Way
Plants with low tolerance to heavy foot
traffic; place between risers and stair treads or at edges of walkways
and steps:
Hens and Chickens (Sempervivum tectorum)
– is a succulent whose red-purple rosettes prefer sun and a well-drained
soil.
Lamium maculatum ‘White Nancy’ – blooms
of white or lavender on variegated foliage reach to 12”; likes partial
shade.
Sea Thrift (Armeria maitima) – has globular,
rosy, pink, or white flowers on compact, tufted foliage; height of 6 inches.
How to plant
Forget traditional tools; try a butter
knife, a tablespoon, or a putty knife for reaching into tight, vertical
spaces. Make a small cardboard tray; place seeds on it. Blow seeds into
crevice that has been fill with good soil. Mist with a spray bottle. Add
dampened newspaper for mulch. Mist seeds regularly during germination
and until well established.
Establishing plants in pockets can be tricky.
To prevent plants from falling out of crevices, roll the roots of the
plants in turf cut from the lawn. It should resemble a jellyroll. Give
the roots a good soaking, and place plant inside the crevice. Continue
to regularly give the plant good soakings until firmly rooted in place.
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Rabbit
Resistant Perennials
If you have trouble with rabbits eating
everything in your flower bed, try some of these perennials. Although
we cannot guarantee that rabbits will not bother them, several sources
recommend these plants for their rabbit-repellent qualities .
Achillea
Aconitum
Anemone
Aquilegia
Artemisia
Aster
Astilbe
Baptisia
Bergenia
Campandula
Cimicifuga
Convallaria
Daylilies
Digitalis
Doronicum
Filipendula
Geranium
Hosta
Iris
Nepeta
Paeonia
Papver
Polygonatum
Polygonum
Salvia
Stachys
Trollius
Yucca
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Roses
Kinds of Roses
Antique Roses – Nothing can compare to
the fabulous form, delightful fragrance and old-fashioned charm of antique
roses. These easy-care beauties have been cherished by generations for
their tremendous vigor and will add interest to any landscape.
Climbing Roses – Climbing roses add attractiveness
to any fence, trellis, wagon wheel, light post, or wall. These favorites
grow 8-15 feet tall with profuse, showy blooms.
English Roses – These new hybrids are the
result of crossing old roses with modern bush roses. They flower repeatedly
throughout the season, have a wider color range, and are disease resistant.
Their height ranges anywhere from 3 to 5 feet.
Floribunda Roses – Floribundas are primarily
landscape roses. Many varieties flower continuously spring through fall.
They are ideal for borders, foundation plantings, and mass plantings.
They are 3-4 feet tall possessing small (2-3”) clustered flowers.
Grandiflora Roses – These roses are usually
4-6 feet tall. Grandiflora varieties possess either single or double flowers
that are sometimes clustered together. They make an excellent garden centerpiece.
Hedge Roses – These roses grow with a bushy
dense habit of 4-5 feet. They can be allowed to grow tall for privacy
or be kept trimmed low like any hedge.
Hybrid Tea Roses – Often used as single
plant specimens in the landscape, hybrid tea roses are tall (over 5 feet),
stately plants. They have large blooms and long stems which are excellent
for cutting.
Miniature Roses – These roses add charm
to a garden in return for surprisingly little effort. The petite flowers
are delicately placed on 1 to 2 feet bushes. They make excellent container
plants.
Shrub Roses – Generally over 4 feet tall,
these everblooming roses may be used as specimen plants or in group planting
for an informal, carefree garden.
Caring for Roses
Fertilizing – Feed 3 times per year using
5-10-5 or similar analysis fertilizer. Feed prior to bud break, during
the first flowering period and about 2 months before the first frost.
Apply fertilizer to the soil and scratch in lightly.
Pest Control – Watch for early signs of
trouble and treat immediately. Many controls are available for rose pests,
including dust, spray, formulations, and systemics. Apply chemical control
to both top and underside of leaves.
Pruning – Pruning controls the size and
shape of roses and keeps them blooming. Established roses should receive
a major pruning each spring. During the growing season, the only pruning
needed is to remove and destroy the diseased foliage or canes and remove
faded flowers.
Winter Protection – Roses must be protected
during the winter in areas where the temperatures go below 20 degrees
F. After foliage drops, spray roses with a fungicide and then cover with
a loose, well-drained soil or compost. The mound should be a minimum of
8 inches high. Prune canes back to 36 inches to prevent being whipped
in winter winds.
The rose, ‘The Queen of Flowers’, will flourish
in your garden with proper care. Roses are easy to care for if you take
the time to plan your rose garden first. All roses no matter the variety,
need six hours of sun a day. Roses of all varieties are heavy feeders
and love a cool drink.
When choosing a site to plant a rose garden, or
planting a bush in the garden, pick one with full sun and good air circulation.
This will help prevent disease such as black spot and mildew.
Roses need four basic steps for care:
• Fertilize – Roses are heavy feeders and bloom
is enhanced by extra care. In early spring before bud break, use a 10-10-10
granular fertilizer (1 cup around each bush). Use a quarter cup of Epsom
salts, which is magnesium, a handful of Alfalfa pellets, and a quarter
cup of Triple-Super-Phosphate Granular Diazanon. Also apply this combination
in July. After mixture is placed around bushes, scratch it in lightly
around the roots. In between these two feedings, use a water-soluble fertilizer
such as miracle grow for roses every 14 days.
• Roses also like at least one inch of water a week.
It helps to keep the bush healthy and helps the roots take up nutrients.
The best way to water roses is with a drip system, so the soil is soaked.
If you only have a few bushes, take your hose, place it at the base of
the plant on a trickle for one-half hour. Never use a sprinkler for overhead
watering. This promotes disease.
• Pest and disease control are best controlled before
trouble appears. Keep the area around the bushes clean – no leaves, no
weeds, no mulch. Many controls are available for rose pests, including
dust, sprays, and systemic. Apply chemical control to both top and underside
of leaves. The best way to control problems is to keep healthy plants.
• Roses must be protected during the winter in areas
where temperatures go below 20 degrees F. Cut very tall plants back to
36 inches so it does not whip in the wind. After foliage drops, spray
roses with a fungicide and then cover with a loose, well-drained soil
or compost.
Planting a Rose
Roses need good drainage but they also need good
soil and moisture. Roses like a PH of 6.0-6.5 – slightly acid. So it would
be a good idea to take a PH test. Add sulphur to acidify the soil and
lime to sweeten the soil.
A good loamy soil with high Humus content is perfect.
A good mixture is 5 parts of soil – 4 parts compost – Humus – 1 part builders’
sand – or shredded bark. (could add triple super phosphate to soil for
root growth.) Dig the hole about 20” wide, 18” deep for a bare-root rose.
Make a mound in the bottom in the shape of a pyramid. Take the bare-root
rose clip, any broken roots, and spread the plant over the mound. Cover
the roots with soil half way. Tamp the soil around the roots gently to
remove air pockets. Fill the hole with water and let it settle. Now fill
the hole so the rose plants graft is 1 inch below ground level. Water
well and mound with soil so the canes are covered to protect new growth
from drying out or freezing.
Potted roses can be planted anytime weather permits.
Dig a hole 8 inches wider than the container. Amend the soil. Remove the
plant from the container without disturbing the root ball. You may need
to slice the sides of the container. Place the rose in the hole and backfill
with the graft one inch below ground level ½ way. Fill the hole with water
and let it settle. Now refill the hole and water.
When roses are grown on their own, plant roots at
the level of the container they are in or where the canes and roots meet.
Make sure your rose bushes are not planted too close
together for good air circulation, this helps prevent disease. If mulching,
keep mulch 2-3 inches from the base of the plant. Remember to water your
plants at least one inch per week.
Spring Cleaning in the Rose
Garden
Staring at enticing photos of roses in magazines,
books, and catalogues during winter makes it easy to conjure up images
of warm days, fragrant blooms, and lush green foliage. But one look outside
quickly snaps you back to reality:
The garden’s a mess
Dead leaves – some reflecting the effects from a
final battle with blackspot and mildew – are everywhere. Untidy bushes
desperately need a haircut. An over-achieving artemesia has swallowed
the miniatures. What kind of miracle will it take to bring this garden
back to picture-perfect status? The answer is a little TLC and a lot of
elbow grease.
Mastering the art of pruning
In most areas of the country, a good rule of thumb
is to start your garden clean-up when the forsythia blooms. Start by pulling
off any diseased leaves that have wintered over on your rose bushes. Dispose
of them right away – don’t throw them on the ground or you’ll be inviting
even more disease problems. Then get out your newly-sharpened pruning
shears and remove dead wood right down to the bud union. To help improve
air circulation, remove any canes that crisscross, canes that grow in
the center of the bush and any weak, spindly growth.
Diseased or winter-damaged wood should be pruned
to the point where you find light green or white pith. Make your cuts
at a 45-degree angle about ¼” above a leaf bud that faces toward the outside
of the plant. How severely you prune depends on the type of rose. Unless
you plan to exhibit, most experts recommend moderate pruning of 18 to
24” for hybrid teas, floribundas and grandifloras. Hybrid perpetual roses,
shrubs and old garden roses generally only require thinning and shaping,
so limit yourself to removing only old canes, dead wood and spindly growth.
David Austin English roses in particular do not like severe haircuts.
The pruning of climbing roses can prove to be a
bit tricky. Climbers that have only one budding period should be pruned
after they bloom. Take out old, weak or entangled branches. Everblooming
climbers need to be pruned while dormant in the spring. Again, remove
any old or unproductive canes, and then cut backside shoots to pencil
thickness.
Miniature roses are your easiest task. A recent
study showed meticulous pruning didn’t really effect the plant’s success
at all. So whether you use secateurs (pruners) or a chain saw, cut back
to about half of last summer’s height. After pruning, paint any cuts wider
than a straw with a sealing compound to discourage insects and diseases.
Sweeping away winter woes
Once your pruning is complete, rake up and bag the
cuttings, leaves and old mulch that remains on the ground or around the
base of your bushes. This debris can be a source of insect eggs and disease
spores. After tidying up the rose beds, you may want to give yourself
a little extra protection against over-wintering bad guys by spraying
your plants on the ground with a combination of an insecticide and fungicide.
Those who prefer the organic approach can try a mixture used by some major
gardens across the country, which includes 1 ½ tablespoons of baking soda,
1 tablespoon of canola oil and 1 tablespoon of insecticidal soap per gallon
of water.
Feeding hungry roses
Roses are very greedy feeders, and they perform
best when offered a healthy diet. To make sure your roses get the sixteen
nutrients they need, it’s a good idea to have your soil tested. The results
can help you pinpoint problems and add the necessary amendments. There
are many opinions on which fertilizing program is best, but in my garden
I spread well-rotted horse manure and a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer right
after pruning. Then every other week, I spray the leaves with a liquid
fertilizer.
As a final step, sprinkle ½ cup of Epsom salts around
each bush and rough up the bud unions with a wire brush to encourage basal
breaks. Then put down fresh mulch and start counting the days until your
roses look as healthy as those in any magazine.
Winter Protection for Roses
In our zone most rose varieties need to be protected
for the winter.
Hybrid teas can be cut back to about 36 inches so
they do not whip in the winter wind. You can tie the canes together or
leave them loose. The leaves can be removed to prevent disease and force
the plant into dormancy.
Roses can be covered with topsoil, compost, or mushroom
manure. You can make a mound about 10’ inches high over the crown of the
plant. This protects the graft of the plant from freezing. It also helps
protect the canes from freezing.
For shrub and hedge roses you do not need to cover.
They grow on their own roots. You can wrap them if you feel the canes
need protection from wind or road salt.
Climbers are harder to protect because of their
trellis or arbor. If they are grafted you can cover in the same manner
as hybrid teas. You can also wrap the canes in burlap if the plant is
not too large.
Miniature roses are on their own roots and can be
covered with shredded leaves. Rose collars can be made out of newspaper
or bought at your local garden shop. Place a collar around the rose and
fill with leaves. This protects the crown from freezing and winter damage.
A rose grown in a container will freeze if left
outside all winter. It can be brought inside to a sunny spot if you have
room for winter, or it can be allowed to go dormant and placed in an unheated
garage or shed. You must remember to water the bush or it will dry out
and die.
A tree rose needs to be placed in an unheated garage
or shed or buried in the ground to protect its graft. If you want to bury
the plant, dig a trench next to it. Dig around the tree’s roots and tip
it into the trench. Then cover it with soil mixed with compost. The whole
tree and roots must be covered. In the spring lift the plant and replant
it.
Roses That Do Well in Western
PA
(Variety – Color)
Artistry – Coral Orange
Bride’s Dream – Light Pink
Caribbean – Orange Blend
Chicago Peace – Pink Blend
Double Delight – Red/White Blend
Elina – Light Yellow
First Prize – Pink Blend
Fragrant Cloud – Orange Red
Garden Party – White
Gold Medal – Yellow
Lagerfeld – Lavender
Legend – Red
Mikado – Red Blend
Mister Lincoln – Red
Olympiad – Red
Paradise – Mauve
Peace – Yellow Blend
Pristine – White
Riosamba – Yellow Blend
Queen Elizabeth – Pink
St. Patrick – Yellow
Tiffany – Pink
Timeless – Deep Pink
Touch of class – Orange
Tourn. Of Roses – Pink
Tropicana – Orange
Floribundas
Betty Prior – Pink
Cherish – Pink
Class Act – White
Europeana – Red
French Lace – White
Iceberg – White
Pleasure – Pink
Sexy Rexy – Pink
Sunsprite – Yellow
Climbers
Blaze – Red
Dortmund – Red & White
Don Juan – Red
Golden Showers – Yellow
Lace Cascade – White
America – Pink
Iceberg – White
Shrub Roses
Bonica – Pink
Carefree Beauty – Pink
Meidiland – Pink, White, Red
Simplicity – Fairy Pink, White
William Baffin –
Miniature Roses
Always a Lady – Mauve
Linville – White
Cupcake – Pink
Magic Carrousel – Red Blend
Dreamer – Medium Pink
Minnie Pearl – Pink Blend
Dreamglo – Red/White
Mother’s Love - Pink
Explorer’s Dream – Orange Pink
Pacesetter - White
Fari Hope – White
Party Girl - Yellow
Fancy Pants – Red Blend
Pierrine - Pine
Green Ice – White
Rainbow’s End – Yellow/Red
Herbie – Mauve
Red Beauty – Dark Red
Hot Tomale – Orange Red
Suzy - Pink
Jean Kenneally – Apricot
Scentsational - Mauve
Jean Latoie – Pink
Winsome - Mauve
June Lavender – Yellow
Captivation - Red
Just for You – Dark Pink
Old Country Charm-Orange Pink
Loving Touch - Apricot
Tobo - Yellow
A rose problem is almost always a reflection
of the plant’s environment. Bad drainage, too little water, poor soil
preparation, insects, disease - all are environmental conditions and can
be successfully countered or avoided.
This chart, prepared by Jackson & Perkins,
will help you diagnose and treat problems. Your local nurseryman or county
agricultural agent will be helpful in recommending a spray or fungicide
or in identifying a pest or disease.
The first line of defense against any rose
problem is a strong healthy plant. A little advance preparation such as
the addition of peat or well-composted organic material to the soil before
planting will provide a blooming environment.
Note: We have endeavored to recommend the
best and most effective remedies. Please follow label recommendations
on all pesticides to avoid plant damage.
Cultural Problems of Roses
Symptom:
New roses are slow to start.
Possible Causes:
A. Inadequate irrigation after planting
B. Roots have dried out before planting.
C. Roses exposed to unseasonably warm temperatures
at planting time, or, planted after the normal planting time for a given
area.
Remedy:
A. Always keep soil and canes moist.
B. Always soak roots in water for 24 hours before
planting.
C. If planting during adverse conditions, protect
canes from sun with wet burlap. Another method is to mound soil around
the canes, removing it as growth begins.
Symptom:
“Sucker growth” from below the bud union. Identification
may be difficult. Sucker growth will be distinctively different from normal
growth and will generally not produce flowers. The canes are small in
diameter, but exceptionally long. Do not confuse with the basal growth
of the variety which comes from above the bud union.
Possible Causes:
A. Winter kill of the varietal top in cold areas.
B. Roses have not been maintained properly.
Remedy:
Using a sharp knife, remove sucker growth where
it joins the main portion of the plant. Be certain to remove all of it.
Symptom:
Leggy growth with no flower buds.
Possible Cause:
Inadequate sunlight
Remedy:
Plant roses where they will receive 4 to 6 hours
of direct sunlight a day.
Symptom:
“Blindwood” - Canes produce nothing but leaves...no
blooms.
Possible Causes:
Over fertilization with a high-nitrogen fertilizer,
or inadequate sunlight.
Remedy:
Reduce fertilizer application, especially nitrogen.
More harm is done by over-fertilizing than by underfertilizing. Prune
blindwood.
Disease Problems of Roses
Symptom:
Dark black spots on the leaves. They can be as small
as a pin head, but are not usually noticed until the smaller spots run
together forming larger spots which may cover half of the leaf surface.
Leaves turn yellow and fall from the plant during periods of high infection.
Affected leaves are always near the bottom of the plant.
Possible Causes:
Blackspot - Usually occurs during rainy periods
of cold, wet weather.
Remedy:
Scheduled sprayings with fungicides such as daconil.
Symptom:
Leaves fold at mid-rib. They may be unusually red
in appearance. White powdery material is on the forming buds and the leaves.
Blooms fail to open, or only partially open.
Possible Causes:
Powdery Mildew - Favored by cool nights, warm days
and high humidity. Failure of blooms to open can also indicate botrytis.
Remedy:
Spray with Benomyl.
Symptom:
Brown spots on the petals. In severe cases, random
areas of the blooms will also become brown as the fungi spread. Blooms
may not open, or only partially open. The disease is more pronounced on
varieties with a large
number of petals (40 or more).
Possible Causes:
Botrytis Blight -Usually occurs during rainy periods
of cold, wet weather.
Remedy:
Sprays for mildew or blackspot will help.
Symptom:
Canes begin to turn brown from their ends. This
condition is most prevalent in colder areas. It is usually first noticed
when growth begins in the spring, after winter protection has been removed.
Possible Causes:
Dieback - Canes have been injured by cold, and fungi
have invaded the injured canes.
Remedy:
Cut off the brown sections of the canes, making
the cut well below the discolored area. Spray with fungicide after pruning.
Provide adequate winter protection.
ROSE SPRAY RECOMMENDATIONS
(Source: Rambling Rosarian Spray Formulations
– 1993)
ALWAYS BE SURE ROSES ARE WELL WATERED
BEFORE APPLYING SPRAY MATERIALS
Blackspot and Powdery Mildew
Funginex 1 Tablespoon per Gallon
Blackspot
Daconil 2787WP 1 Tablespoon per Gallon
Fungi-Gard (Daconil) 2 Tablespoons per Gallon
Chewing, Sucking Insects
Thrips
Orthene 2 Tablespoons per Gallon
Broad Spectrum
Diazinon (Spectracide) 2 Teaspoons per Gallon
Aphid Control
Insecticidal Soap (Safer) 5 Tablespoons per Gallon
Japanese Beetles
Sevin 1 Tablespoon per Gallon
Combination Spray – Fungus Disease and
Insects
Orthenex 2 Tablespoons per Gallon
(useful in small gardens)
Spider Mites
Water Use water wand under leaves during hot, dry
weather
NOTE: Always read and follow label
instructions
There are many more products on the market, but
not so readily available as those listed here. If you have a severe condition
in your garden, call one of the Pittsburgh Rose Society Rosarians.
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Shade
Garden
Is there an area in your yard that is shadowed
in some way from the direct rays of the sun? If so, you can create a shade
garden. The first thing to consider is the degree of shade. Here are a
few definitions that describe shade:
Heavy Or Dense Shade: This is the deepest
shade, found in areas of your landscape with a northern exposure, only
receiving a small amount of reflected light.
Medium Shade: This is an open area with
no direct sunlight, only reflected light, due to trees and overhanging
branches tending to block the direct light.
Light Shade: An area in your garden in
which there is little or no direct sunlight but has bright sunlight occurring
in the early morning or late afternoon.
Filtered/Dappled Shade: This is the brightest
type of shade produced by open tree branches that move in the wind and
create patterns of moving sunlight across the ground, but plants are still
not exposed to direct sunlight.
Other things to take into consideration
are soil preparation, spacing, watering and, at last, selecting plants.
Below is a partial listing of plants for shaded areas:
Plants For Deep Shade: Anemone, Aquilegia,
Aruncus, Bergenia, Cimicifuga, Convallaria, Dicentra, Ferns, Galium, Hedera,
Hosta, Liriope, Pachysandra, Polygonatum, Tradescantia, Viola.
Plants For Dry Shade: Alchemilla, Bergenia,
Brunnera, Epimedium, Euonymus, Festuca, Lamium, Pologonatum, Primula,
Tradescantia, Vinca minor
Plants For Moist Shade: Aruncus, Asarum,
Astilbe, Caltha, Calycanthus, Cimicifuga, Clethera, Doronicum, Ferns,
Hosta, Iris kaempferi, Ligularia, Lobelia, Lysimachia nummularia, Myosotis,
Pulmonaria, Rodgersia, Tradescantia
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©2001 Trax Farms Inc. All Rights Reserved
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